Lovely, Overwhelming, Total Joy: Maja’s 15-Year Wait for Lençóis Maranhenses

A retired professor from Slovenia, a husband with a camera, and six days across Barreirinhas, Atins, and Santo Amaro, told in Maja’s own words

Maja Žumer, 73, spent her career teaching information science at the University of Ljubljana, in Slovenia. Though officially retired for a year, she remains connected to a research program—the very reason a conference in São Paulo brought Brazil back onto her schedule in 2026.

This was not Maja’s first visit to Brazil, but it was her first time seeing Lençóis’ otherworldly dunes in person. She had been dreaming of Lençóis Maranhenses National Park for 15 years. After a failed attempt in the past, she finally made the journey alongside her husband, Slobodan Žumer, a passionate photographer.

In August 2026, the couple followed the Lençóis Maranhenses Full Itinerary, which links the park’s three main bases (Barreirinhas, Atins, and Santo Amaro) by road, river, and 4×4, organized by PlanetaEXO with local guides. This is her story. Check it out below!

Fifteen years, one failed attempt, and a now-or-never trip

It all began with a family conversation. About 15 years ago, Maja’s daughter-in-law came home with a discovery: a place in Brazil called Lençóis Maranhenses. Maja instantly fell in love with the idea, but the distance felt like a hurdle.

The first chance came 10 years ago, with a conference in Rio de Janeiro. She looked everywhere for an agent who could organize the trip but couldn’t find one, and traveling alone made it harder. So the plan changed to Iguazu Falls. “It was lovely, I have to admit,” she said, “but it was not Lençóis.”

When a second conference came up in São Paulo this year, the decision was simple: “It’s now or never.” Maja reached out to several agencies, but PlanetaEXO stood out. “PlanetaEXO was the only one who responded immediately, was totally responsive, and answered all my questions,” she recalled.

Looking back, the verdict is clear: “This was probably my last chance. And it worked perfectly.”

👉 Read more: How to get to Lençóis Maranhenses?

A unique destination even seasoned travelers haven’t heard of

Maja has traveled all over the world, including Argentina, Mexico, Guatemala, and the Sahara. Lençóis still felt completely unique.

“I can say this is quite exceptional,” she said. “Nothing is like it. Even other deserts cannot compare, because of the color, and in combination with the water, of course,” she praised.

What surprised her back home is how few people know Lençóis Maranhenses. “When I mention it to people, even those who travel a lot and have been to Brazil many times, they haven’t heard of it,” she commented, highlighting the uniqueness of the national park.

Driving up the dunes felt like driving through snow

Although 15 years of seeing photographs set high expectations, Maja and Slobodan found that pictures couldn’t capture the authentic beauty of Lençóis Maranhenses. The first 4×4 ride, in particular, stuck with her. How could a sandy landscape look so much like a winter scene?

“It’s like driving in snow, and I love to ski, so it’s really something very, very positive for me,” she marveled, fascinated by the scale as well. “Of course I knew it’s a huge area, but I wasn’t fully aware you could see so far and that it changed all the time.”

👉 Read more: How was Lençóis Maranhenses formed: understanding Brazil’s sand dunes and lagoons

A different landscape every hour and a happy husband with a camera

The couple explored Lençóis Maranhenses National Park for six days. Never once did the view repeat itself. “It was always something different. The view was different; the light was different. It was never, never boring,” Maja said. With good weather on their side, the time of day did the rest: “Noon is quite different from afternoon, or morning, or sunset.”

The texture of the dunes shifted, too. For a photography lover like Slobodan, Lençóis was a “paradise for photographers.” According to Maja, he was over the moon—something the guides noticed.

“They would always stop for photos. We’d just signal, and they would stop immediately,” she remembered. “Even if we didn’t signal, when they saw my husband trying to take a photo, they would slow down immediately.”

👉 Read more: When is the best time to visit Lençóis Maranhenses?

Warm lagoons and 10 meters of beach to themselves

The full itinerary strings together lagoon circuits from all three bases: Lagoa Azul (Barreirinhas); Ponta do Mangue and Canto do Atins (Atins); and Lagoa do Junco and Lagoa do Reflexo (Santo Amaro).

Maja loved them all, and one detail stood out: the temperature. “I was surprised how warm the water is,” she said. “Maybe it’s again this association with snow.”

Crowds were never a problem either. The guides took the couple to some lagoons where they were completely alone and to others with more people, but never overcrowded. “We always had our 10 meters of beach to ourselves. The guides really did a good job when it came to choosing the lagoons and the views.”

Three bases, one river, and never in a rush

Maja and Slobodan visited Barreirinhas, took the speedboat along the Preguiças River to Atins, and had a great time in Santo Amaro. None of it was physically demanding.

“There was hardly any walking anyway. Although we are older, we are still quite fit. We both still ski. Physically, it was very easy and relaxing, and there was enough time,” she explained, saying that she found the experience quite effortless and rewarding.

That was one of the things she liked the most. “We were never rushing, and we always knew in advance how much time we had at each spot. Everything went very smoothly.”

The organization of the itinerary worked really well for them, since the guides always presented the next day’s schedule the previous afternoon. For Maja, this was a huge help. “Otherwise, we would have to look back and think, ‘Do I remember it right or not?’ So it was wonderful.”

👉 Read more: How many days should you spend in Lençóis Maranhenses?

Smiling hosts, clean pousadas, and a first taste of caju

Away from the dunes, what Maja noticed first was the mood. “People are always in a good mood, always smiling. You don’t see long faces,” she stated with a smile of her own. “The whole atmosphere is nice.”

At restaurants, staff helped with the language and tried their best. At pousadas, the hosts made sure the couple was comfortable and that everything was running smoothly.

All of their accommodations were booked through PlanetaEXO as well, and every stay exceeded expectations. While each place had its own distinct character—some being more laid-back than others—all proved to be “very nice, clean, and comfortable. We had no problems whatsoever,” as Maja noted.

At the table, the couple ate fish, meat, and, of course, rice and beans. The novelty was caju, the fruit of the cashew tree, which she tried in a drink and found very interesting and authentic—just like everything else in Lençóis Maranhenses. “Everything was delicious.”

👉 Read more: Where to stay in Lençóis Maranhenses?

Was Brazil safe? Maja’s honest answer

In Lençóis, Maja never gave it a second thought. The couple walked around Atins in their free time, and even after dark, she was not concerned. “We always felt safe,” she stated.

São Paulo and Rio are different, she admits, but that wasn’t surprising. “All big cities are like that. You have to take precautions and not do stupid things. I’m not squeamish about that. I’ve been to so many places.”

Drawing on her experience, Maja recommends one thing to any traveler: common sense.

👉 Read more: 10 Travel Tips for Lençóis Maranhenses to Make the Most of Your Trip

Lençóis in three words and Maja’s next destination

We asked Maja to describe the trip in three words: Lovely. Overwhelming, “but in a good sense, because all the senses are aroused by this lovely landscape.” And total joy.

Her advice for anyone considering Lençóis Maranhenses or Brazil is simple: “Just do it as soon as possible. Don’t hesitate.”

Realistically, Maja isn’t sure there will be another trip to Brazil, but the list is already there. Slobodan loved his past trips to Manaus and the Amazon, so Maja would like to visit those places too, as well as southern Brazil.

After all, Lençóis already proved that plans can surprise you. “Ten years ago, I never knew I would be coming back,” she said. “So who knows? I would never say no to it.”

Visiting Lençóis Maranhenses with PlanetaEXO

Now that you’ve seen the park through Maja’s eyes—dunes that feel like fresh snow, lagoons warm enough to linger in, and days that never feel rushed—you know it’s worth the wait.

PlanetaEXO is an ecotourism platform specializing in Lençóis Maranhenses tours. Working alongside experienced local guides and operators, we handle all the logistics so you can focus on the dunes. Contact us now!